Why Is My LG Refrigerator 6 Blinks on Board: Repairing Inverter Appliance Board

LG refrigerator 6 blinks on board – a frustrating issue I’ve encountered and researched extensively. Ever felt the chill of a warm fridge?

It’s not just food at stake, but your sanity too.

LG refrigerators are known for their reliability, but they’re not immune to problems. The dreaded 6-blink error can leave you scratching your head.

But fear not, fellow fridge owners!

I’ve delved deep into this cool conundrum. From faulty sensors to compressor hiccups, I’ve got the scoop on what’s causing your LG to act up.

Ready to dive in and get your fridge back to its chilly best?

Key Takeaways:

• 6 blinks typically indicate a freezer fan motor failure
• Possible causes include sensor defects, water pressure issues, and defrost failures
• Solutions range from manual defrost to component replacements
• Regular maintenance can prevent future problems

What Does lG refrigerator error codes 6 flashes Mean?

My heart skipped a beat when I saw my LG fridge blinking 6 times. After some research, here’s what I found.

You’re dealing with that pesky 6-blink error on your LG fridge, That usually means there’s a “Freezer Fan Motor Failure.”

Basically, fan in the freezer is either stuck or just not doing its job, which can cause your fridge to flash that error code at you.

First things first, you might want to try a manual defrost. Unplug the fridge, clear out all the food and ice, and let it sit for a good 8 hours.

This should melt any ice buildup that might be jamming the fan. It’s a bit of a pain, but it’s worth a shot before diving into any serious repairs.

Why is my lG refrigerator blinking 6 times on Board?

LG fridge’s control panel is blinking, it might be stuck in DEMO/DISPLAY MODE. No worries, here’s a quick fix for ya:

1. Open up one of the refrigerator doors, preferably the french door.
2. Hold down the REFRIGERATOR and ICE PLUS buttons at the same time for about 5 seconds.
3. You should hear a beep and see the temperature settings pop up on the control panel. That means DEMO MODE is turned off.

If your fridge still isn’t cooling right, try giving it a reset. Just unplug it or trip the circuit breaker for 30 seconds.

Once you plug it back in, the compressor should kick on and it should start cooling and verify if the process takes 24 hours.

What Are the Possible Causes of 6 Blinks on LG Refrigerator Control Board?

Cause 1: Freezer Fan Motor Failure

if you’re seeing the freezer LED light blink six times, it might be because the fan motor is stuck or kaput. Usually, this happens cuz there’s a bunch of frost or ice building up inside the ice maker fan housing.

You know that annoying sound your fridge makes when it’s working overtime? Well, I’ve discovered it might be because the fan inside is basically an ice sculpture.

And, guess what? This frost party is often thrown by your fridge doors not sealing right, letting in warm air that causes the fan motor to freeze up.

Solution

Double-check that the freezer fan motor is properly installed and securely fastened. You don’t want any loose screws causing trouble.

In my years of troubleshooting appliances, I’ve found that a secure fan motor is essential for optimal performance.

When I decided to tackle the freezer repair myself, pulling back the panel felt like unlocking a hidden compartment.

Next, give the motor a good look to make sure it isn’t locked up or jammed. If it’s stuck, it ain’t gonna work properly.

I was surprised at how easy it was to replace the freezer fan motor once I knew where to start.

I find it helpful to take pictures of the connections before disconnecting anything. That way, I know how everything is supposed to go back together. Use a flashlight to inspect the connectors for any signs of wear or damage.

Make sure all those connections are nice and snug. Loose wires can cause all sorts of problems. Use a multimeter to test the voltage at the connector to ensure it’s receiving the correct power.

If it turns out the motor is faulty, well, you might have to replace it.

Cause 2: Defect of Freezer Sensor

We’ve encountered a common culprit behind freezer malfunctions: a defective sensor. It’s like the brain of your freezer, constantly monitoring conditions.

If the sensor gets short-circuited or disconnected, it throws everything off. We recommend checking the sensor’s resistance using a multimeter.

If you see your freezer’s LED light blinking six times, it’s sending an SOS! This is a clear indication of a troubled freezer fan motor.

Solution

I’ve personally dealt with this issue in my own home, and I know firsthand how frustrating it can be.

Let’s find that freezer sensor. It’s usually hanging out near the freezer compartment. Once you spot it, give it a good look over.

Keep an eye out for any signs of damage, or corrosion, or if it looks like it got disconnected. Those sensors can be sneaky sometimes!

Next, take a closer look at the sensor wires. Are there any loose connections? Any signs of corrosion? If everything looks good, you’re in the clear.

I’ve found that using a magnifying glass can help you spot those tiny cracks or breaks in the sensor.

Look for any loose connections or signs of corrosion. A little green or white residue could be the culprit. If everything checks out, we’re on the right track. But if the sensor looks damaged or loose, it might be time for a replacement.

Now, here’s a little trick – unplug the fridge’s power cord for about 5 minutes. It’s like giving the system a little reset. After the wait, plug it back in and let the fridge come back to life.

let’s check on the freezer fan motor. Is it humming along as it should? If not, it might be time to get a new one.

Cause 3: Flow Meter or Low Water Pressure

Experiencing a wimpy water flow? You’re not alone. It can be super frustrating when your shower feels more like a drizzle. One common culprit is a malfunctioning flow meter.

This little device can significantly impact your water pressure. Don’t worry, though; we’ll walk you through the steps to identify if this is the problem and how to fix it.

Solution

Start by examining your flow meter. It’s crucial that it’s installed correctly and calibrated precisely. Over time, mineral deposits or debris can clog it, restricting water flow.

We recommend checking your water pressure regularly. Aim for a range of 40 to 50 psi. Anything below that could indicate a problem.

We’ve found that a common culprit behind low water pressure is a malfunctioning flow meter. It’s essential to ensure it’s installed correctly, calibrated accurately, and free from blockages or mineral buildup.

Cause 4: Defrost Failure

If your fridge runs a two-hour defrost cycle but the temperature doesn’t climb to a cozy 13°C (55.4°F), your defrost system might be on strike.

I’ve been in your shoes, staring at a malfunctioning fridge, wondering what went wrong.

Solution

Find the defrost heater at the back of your LG model freezer. Look closely for any damage or loose wires. If it looks busted, it probably needs replacing by a technician.

This little guy keeps an eye on your freezer temperature. Grab a multimeter to test if it’s working right. No continuity? Time to swap it out.

This defrost board manages the whole defrost thing. Peek at it for any burn marks or damage. If it looks fried, a new one might be in order.

It is placed on the freezer section,

The drain line gets clogged up, which messes with how water drains out when things defrost, especially in a french door refrigerator.

Run some warm water through it to clear out any gunk.

Make sure your freezer doors are sealed tight. If not, warm air sneaks in, and that can cause frost to build up like crazy.

If you’ve got your freezer set too chilly, it might not defrost properly. Try dialling it up a bit and give it about a day to settle.

Cause 5: Knob Dial Resistance Short or Open

Your LG fridge is flashing an error code ‘Knob Dial Resistance Short or Open,’ which means something’s amiss with the temperature control knob. This could be a short circuit or a loose connection.

Basically, it could be a short circuit or something that’s not connected right in there.

What you gotta do is check that knob dial thing. Look for any wires that might be loose or if something’s not right with how it’s all hooked up.

Sometimes these things happen, but catching it early can save you a headache later on.

Solution

Inspect the knob dial: Check for damage, wear, or incorrect resistance. If faulty, replace it following manufacturer’s instructions.

Verify connections: Ensure the knob dial is securely connected to the control board.

Calibrate controls: Adjust temperature settings accurately after replacing the knob dial.

Test functionality: Verify correct temperature and steady LED lights.

Case Study

Once that’s done, take a peek at the condenser fan next to the compressor. Is that sucker spinning like a well-oiled top or is it dragging its feet? And those coils, man, are they looking more like your abuela’s dusty attic or are they still fresh and clean? Don’t be shy now, give ’em a good once-over.

If everything looks kosher so far, it’s time to check that capacitor. Grab your meter and switch it to the uf setting, you know, the one for them micro-farads. Slap one of them probe thingies on pin A of con201, and the other on pin B. Should be some lettering there like “CAP” or “CAPACITOR” to guide you. If all’s well, you ought to see around 18uf on that display.

Now, if that capacitor’s playing nice, chances are your compressor’s gone rogue on you. See, 6 led blinks means it’s overloaded and throwing a fit. Could be the coils are too dang dirty and ain’t letting enough air through. Or maybe that fan’s taken a vacation, leaving the poor compressor to overheat like a jalapeño left too long on the comal.

The thing is, that compressor’s gonna keep trying to restart every 6 minutes, bless its stubborn little heart. But if it’s too hot to handle, either from the heatwave outside or lack of airflow, it’s gonna cut off again like a telenovela star storming off set.

So, if you’ve checked everything and it all looks copacetic, well, chances are that compressor’s gone loco on you. Maybe it’s overheating, maybe something’s seized up tighter than your tía’s famous tamales. Either way, you might just need to replace the whole dang thing, compadre.

Juan Carlos Lozano, ifixit.com

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